Hello everybody, welcome to Chali Costume and Props! Today I’m not gonna make a movie criticism instead of I’m gonna make a costume, actually I’m gonna make a mask. Red Hood’s mask. First apprentice of Batman, you know who he is, I’m not gonna tell you guys his history. Let’s look at what his helmet looks like? Then we can start building it. Definitely not this one! Absolutely not this one! These are ordinary!!! Now we are talking! I want to build similar like this one. Because the other ones are so simple or looks like biker helmet which I don’t like. I want something with more details. I’m gonna make looks like the last one which I found template for it. And I share it’s template with you down below so you guys download it. It’s a Pepakura file. Now, lets begin building!!! First we need to cut our templates. As you can see there is a lot of templates in this project. And there are a lines on the templates like in this sample image. These lines mean mountain or valley fold. Like in the sample picture. But we are gonna think reverse of it. And also if you open a little holes on these lines, holes will be help you draw these lines on the eva foam. As you can see I start pinning my templates on to the Eva Foam and drawing it on the my Eva Foam and also I put a little dots from holes. This is why open holes before. With that way I won’t tear or damage my Eva Foam with too much pressure. Later, we gonna cut V lines on these lines so we will have different layers. It’s simple. Just combine points with drawing your pencil. Just like in kids magazine. Take your time when you’re drawing your templates. If any template has inner cut, be sure about you draw it on your Eva Foam. And try to keep your hand straight as much as possible! When you’ll draw all of them, you gonna have something like this. First I’m gonna cut the parts with no angle, I mean 90 degree angle. Because some parts needs an angle cut. I’m trying to show you each angle cut. Just beacuse of it this video will be a little long. If you’ll cut your parts with correct angle then you’re gonna have right shape as a finishing result. For example this piece. As like you see I cut this piece with inner angle cut. I hold my blade with an angle. Other sides of these part cut with 90 degree. So try to follow my every cut. And don’t forget keep your blades sharp! Otherwise angle cut will be pain in the neck. Like the last piece, this one has -as you can see- both straight and angle cuts. These part flat rest of it has inner angle cuts. This piece has outer angle cut. Rest of it needs straight cut. Just like in the screen. I can’t say to you guys what is correct angle? You need keep your hands in the same angle as much as you can. These pieces has all outer angle cuts. Like the last one this piece outer side has an outer angle cut, inner side has an straight cut. This piece also same. Inner side has an outer angle cut rest of it has an straight cut. Here is the result. And this piece upper side (for me of course) (for me of course) needs to cut with an outer angle, and rest needs straight cut. Same like the last one on this piece. If you can follow my cuts correctly in the you’ll have a right shaped helmet. This part has outer angle cuts all over it except bottom. Only bottom side needs to be with straight cut. These sides has an inner angle cut. This part a little bit complicated. Straight cut. Straight cut again. Outer angle cut. As you can see, it all has outer, inner and straight cuts. It can be a little bit confused. If you can look at your templates from Pepakura with 3D view then you can understand which piece needs a which cut. So you can change cut. If I made a inner cut, you can change it with the part gonna connect with it. Just cut the other piece with same angle and cut my piece with straight cut. Result will be same. Just look at my cuts, my angles. I’m trying to show you each one. Now these three templates. I want them from more thicker Eva Foam. I used 5 mm. Eva Foam for rest of it. Now I’m gonna use 10 mm. Eva Foam. Actually it’s a floor mat. You know how to cut. So I’m not gonna show you. Every piece with 10 mm. Eva Foam needs to be cut with straight cuts. For inner cuts I’m gonna use my wood burner. (Don’t breathe any gas from burning Eva an be sure about you’re in good ventilated area.) Simply V cuts actually you need. Wood burner doesn’t work on these 10 mm. pieces. So you have to make a V cuts with your X-Acto knife. Lets look at our lines and what they are means again. If you saw a mountain fold make a valley fold, if you saw valley fold make a mountain fold. Because we gonna apply them bottom of our build. These folds actually for paper. Put a low temp hot glue in to a V cuts. If you follow my way, as a result you’re gonna have something like that. Some samples. Some samples. If you think any piece needs a heat shape but be careful don’t melt hot glue. Now time for some decoration. You’re gonna need 2 mm. Eva Foam and breakfast service mats with some texture on it. Draw your templates twice on the you service mats and be sure you keep them in the same angle. Then cut them carefully. Then glue them on to your 2 mm. Eva Foam. With that these decoration things will be more durable and stays flat. These part is optional. Now we are gonna open windows for them. I measure about 5 mm. from the outer corners to the inside and mark them with the dots. Then I can combine these dots and cut from on to them with my X-Acto knife. With carefully of course. Then I use my contact cement to join them together. As you can see, it’s looks cool! After paint will be cooler! Now time to join everything together! I used contact cement! So I’m not gonna show you how I connect each piece. I don’t want to take your time. First eye pieces. But with these piece needs an angle from inside. I realize it when start to join them. But no too late ha? You can do it from begining. Eyebrow piece it is. Then I start again join everything together. Merge more… Merge more… Take your time, try to make smooth merge points. So you don’t have waste your time with sanding. And about contact cement. You need to apply your contact cement both side and need to wait about 5 minutes. When the cement is tacky you can join your parts together. Now this piece. Actually it’s need a outer angle cut but I couldn’t able to see it. Now time for the redemption. I just need to make it bigger which piece gonna join it. So I use same template again and make a little piece with same shape about 10 mm. width. And glue it bottom of the main piece. Now our piece has a place to glue itself. But you can cut these pieces with an outer angle cut from the begining. With that you don’t need a redemption like me. But this is a solution right? It’s started to looks like a Red Hood a little bit. Some parts can be a pain in the neck when you will try to join them together. Be patience, take your time. Because with so many angles, bevels… this is hard to build. If you are doing something like that for the first time I don’t recommend this build. Star with something much simple. Like a Captain America helmet maybe. But if you are rookie or semi-pro something this is hard and fun to build. If you’ll able to finish it you’ll like the result for sure. Now time for the 10 mm. Eva Foam pieces. Join them together too. And also you’ll understand why I made these pieces from 10 mm. Eva Foam. I’ll be need an extra space in this parts later. To these pieces you need open a pocket holes. I don’t use the templates in these areas. I’m gonna make something different and cooler. But you can always use original template pieces. Or you can follow my way. But as a resulting using different thickness Eva Foam made some blank areas between parts which we will correct it later. I’ll made my own templates so I can fill these areas. If you use same thickness Eva Foam all over your helmet than you will not gonna face a problem like this. Now I’m gonna put some paper under these blank areas and draw my templates from there. And cut this template from paper, apply this on to your Eva Foam. Last cut it from your Eva Foam and glue it, it’s place. One time one blank areas. You need keep your helmet integrity. Use your masking tapes for integrity. If you don’t use any tapes it’ll disperse and you can’t get right template. Now time for the glue this. Maybe you can’t do it right at the first try but keep try it and never give up! After all of these I connect two pieces of helmet together with masking tape. And as you can see we have another blank area. I do the same process for these areas. This is where my camera closed. But you know what I’m doing with these areas. Now time for the magnets! So we can open and close our helmet easily. First I’m gonna build little pieces where I can put my magnets in. But these pieces need to identical. Because of that I’m gonna make my own templates from masking tape. Then with using these templates I’m gonna open holes for my magnets. Be sure, you sand your magnets back for a better gluing. I use super glue for this. When you are finish you’ll have something like that. Then we’re gonna put them inside the helmet for opening and closing mechanism. Mark their places before and glue them after their place. This is what I want as a result. Work! But we need 4 times of these. And I’m out of little circular magnets so I’m gonna use flat ones. For flat ones, I’m gonna dig the Eva Foam, sanding magnets and glue them to their places. And same result with different magnets. Mark their places to and glue them. I used these ones as up and down. So with this way magnets hold the mask with two dimensions. Now time for the sanding rest of the helmet. Smooth the edges. Clean the joining sections. And last glue bottom piece as a one piece to the bottom of the helmet. Then sand this part too. There will be a little holes all around the helmet. We will fill them with joint filler (for example: Kwik Seal) . Be sure about your joint filler is flexible. Take a little bit joint filler in to your finger, apply it to the holes and last we’re gonna smooth it with water. Make this step 2 or 3 times if it’s necessary. Now time for the unused template areas. I want to use some buckles and straps. But these are need to be a little big high. So I use my masking tape for making templates again. I draw my templates, cut the templates, draw it on to my 10 mm. Eva Foam, cut it, and glue it to their place. Smooth the edges again, sand the back side of it if you use floor mat like me, so it can glue to it’s place much more easily. You can use screw like these for the better hold and also as a accessory Open holes for screws with your Dremel tool. And here is the result again. But for now, I’m gonna masking these parts cause I don’t want to apply any sealer on to them. Lastly, I open a holes at the back of the helmet. Reason for this later.. Now time for the seal it. I use mod podge and sponge brush for this. I’ll make 3 coats of mod podge. Wait about half hour between each coats. After my sealing done, now time for the separate our helmet to the two parts again. Because our helmet has it’s own integrity now. Cut correct places, take your masking tapes off… And you have two separate pieces again. From now on. you can always join them together with your magnets easily. Magic of the Mod Podge! Now time for the another sealing. For this I’m gonna put little masking tape rings inside my helmet. And be sure about you cover your magnets with masking tape for good. Time for the Plastidip!!! I used Black Plastidip so at the same time it work as a primer. I apply plastidip about 3 coats. And again between each coats I wait about 30 minutes. After 3 coats of plastidip I cover the areas which I want to leave as black. And I’m gonna use Tamiya Titanium Silver (X-32) with Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner. 2 parts paint 1 part thinner. This is how I mix it. I apply 3 coats of this paint. So I can have a metallic looks as a result. Now time for the Red. I use Tamiya’s Clear Red (X-27) . I use my airbrush for these. But you can use brushes. I don’t how many coats I applied? First it’s became pink, then start to look more darker, day become night, night become day, my clothes changed, my beard grown up and I cut it. I feel like it took forever! But I never gave up! I use two bottle of Tamiya X-27 Clear Red. (10 ml. ) And finally I got what I want as a color tone! I masked eye areas with masking tape. Now why? Because I want shiny metallic looks also at the eye parts. And I used Tamiya’s Semi Gloss Black (X -18) for eye areas with my airbrush. Then peel of your masking tapes carefully. Eye areas done too! Now time for the black wash! I use what left of from the Tamiya’s Semi Gloss Black. Put a little bit water in it. And apply all over the mask with brush. And after a few minutes I wipe out with some paper towel. And I do this process over and over again until I get result I want. Now peel of your masking tapes from the side panels carefully. Now look, it looks cool. 😀 Now time for the Dry Brush techinque. For this I used some cheap silver acrylic paints. Just put a so little paint on to your brush and wipe most of it on to some paper towel. Then brush it gently the areas which you want to look more metallic or worn. Corners and breakfast mat parts best option I think. Lastly I apply gloss varnish for more glossy look and paint protection. Are we done? No! I’m gonna make a template for eye areas. And make the templates a little bit bigger. About 1 cm. maybe. And I use some old plexiglass sheet which I don’t know where it came from. I masked areas which I gonna use for protection. And I draw my templates. Cut it with my Dremel. Took it out of there. And peel the masking tape from it. Sand the edges and the corners with sanding paper. Then heat the parts with your heat gun and give it a shape with some aeresol can, in this case I use WD-40 can. Now it’s bended. Time for the LED’s!!! Here is my scheme. GÖZ: Eye , Brown parts are LED strips, PİL: Battery, Anahtar: Switch. And you know the rest. Just simple electronics. If you have any problem with that part feel free to ask me in the comments below. I used 12 V. battery. Because it’s small. But you can also use 9 V. battery too. When you finish, before you put it in your helmet be sure about it worked very well. Then you put your switch to the hole we opened before. Make sure about secure your cables. And glue the eye pieces to eye holes with hot glue. And, join two piece together with some straps. Now you just need to put this buckles. I used super glue for this. And I made my straps with buckle parts with using hot glue. And again with hot glue (low temp) I attach my straps to the sockets I opened before. Now time for the finished result!!! Finally I finish it. I took to much time. But I think it’s worth it. I like it. With lights.. I’m really glad with result. About color, it’s a little bit hard to getting metallic red tone I want. Maybe you can use Metallic Red sprey paint cans directly. It’ll be more easily I think. But I want a little bit darker tones. This is why I made this like that. Metallic Red sprey cans make it too much shinny I think which I don’t want. I think it’s cool enough! It told itself. No more word needed. Please follow me on Instagram, YouTube; make comments, tell me you like it or not. These are important for me. See you at the next build. See you later guys!!! Bye!