How To Paint & Set Up Your Spray Gun – Great Tips with Kevin Tetz at Eastwood Part 2 of 2


we can talk about the controls there’s
an air control here is your fan pattern measure measure your trigger control
down so i’m actually going to use this air regulator as well typically I don’t like an air regulator
at the butt of the gun and it’s partly because my hands are small but it’s also
because the mechanics of it see what is happening there it’s hit my
forearm I don’t like it I want this and then its cues that my
hand position and become uncomfortable and by the time i get 5 quotes around a
conversion van I’m tired so I like to set my wall
regulator actually I’ve got a regulator like this that i can set my pressure free down the gun set my wall regulator
based on the pressure here and then i can safely remove this get it out of the
way get that restrictive valve out of the way and be confident that I knew got
the the inlet pressure that have preset we’re going to stick with it here
because the wall regulators about a hundred and eighty feet away so we’re not going to go there so I had
a little mixing up here we go it looks like it does actually look like
coffee dunkin donuts it’s about the consistency
of today’s clear coat like I said it’s like pancake syrup its water based paint we got it at
walmart and it’s just it’s you know it’s his water paint on course to about 20
psi the inlet so we’re going to set it at that you’ve
got several controls on this gun which are universal you’ve got well this isn’t always on
every gun i like this feature because I can choke the the pressure back if I’m
you got a little tight recess that I want to score a little bit extra if I’ve missed have got some dry spray
and a wheel arch I like to bring the air pressure down and kind of missed it back
in without blasting all the rest of the panel so this is a nice feature to have but it’s not a hundred percent necessary
so you’ve got a fan control up on the top which I’m going to die all the way
in and your fluid control which as you can see doesn’t allow any paid out for
your fluid control and there’s theories all over the place on the fluid control I like to open the gun up and let it do
what it’s going to do this is a carburetor a carburetor mixes air and
fuel and atomizes it this is a carburetor it just doesn’t
have gasoline in it it’s got your pain in it so to me somebody has been a lot of time
there’s an engineer that’s developed and designed this gun to a demise paint
properly okay see what happens we’ve got a lot of
paint coming out and my fan pattern is in a . and there’s a purpose for that
but it’s not really painting cars so now I’ve got my fluid delivery wide
open so i’m going to back my fan control off to where I have the football shape it’s an elliptical
pattern and that’s precisely what you want if it’s heavy on one side or the other
side for instance if you’ve got a pattern it looks kind of like an eight chances
are your air pressure is too high and it’s blowing it out the air horns are
are shooting air into the point to where it’s week in the middle and heavy on the
sides typical troubleshooting as well if
you’ve got a pattern that kind of looks like a banana one of your air horns is probably
plugged up typically it’s so the opposite side –
what the pattern is looking like and again if you got a pattern that’s
really heavy on one side and light on another side chances are you’ve got some kind of
gummed up your needle seat is probably got something built up on it so that’s a
great excuse to break the gun down clean it up and start over again and we’ll
talk about gun cleaning – and that brings up another point has
anybody ever bought a spray gun took it out of the box put some pain in it and
shot a panel and not had problems has anybody ever done that I’ve done it
I got excited I was I had a job to shoot and pull the paint gun out of the box
and you know i got by with it I got away with it but sometimes there are coatings
that are put on these the spray equipment that is designed to keep it
from corroding so when you get to see you when you get a paint gun in a box
like this chances are it’s at a warehouse is sat
on a manufacturing line they put coatings on it anything from cosmoline to kerosene
stuff it’s it’s aluminum on the inside its machine on the outside and anodized
but it’s not in the inside the internal fluid passages are all aluminum so they
want to coat that so in case it sits on a warehouse or a loading dock somewhere
for a year and a half it’s not going to corrode on the inside
cause you guys problems that makes it very very important to clean that gun
thoroughly quick break it apart pull the needle and seat out of it break it apart
pull the cap off clean it clean it thoroughly and then put it back together
shoot some solvent through it and then you can start effectively on your paint
job it’s very important that so it’s a
pretty heavy-duty troubleshooting thing and talking to the guys at the tech
center here they have that conversation a lot
with people that bought a spray gun and they’ve they’ve pulled it out of the box
thinking well it’s new it should be perfectly clean it’s not
and it’s not the fault of the spray gun it’s not the fault of eastwood it’s not
the fault of sada of of NS to WOD it’s not the fault of anybody to build this
nobody counts on you guys not cleaning your equipment first it’s not in the instruction sheet but
it’s a really good idea to keep back here so that’s one way that you can eliminate
a problem so Greg yes he was talking to greg was talking
about overlap typically you want a 50-percent overlap
now there’s there’s reasons that you want to break that rule but a 50-percent
overlap is is pretty much industry standard now what that means obviously is that
you’re overlapping and I’m moving up halfway through that pattern and again that builds this coding evenly
all the way through that paint job so you’re fifty percent overlap is
pretty darn important so we’ve got to spray technique how many
guys are painted an entire car there’s a method that i called
leapfrogging it’s on the page occasion instructional dvds on the patreon car
video basically is where to start and where to stop on it on an entire paint
job so i will actually eventually get to a point here but on the education DVD i
started the roof I do what’s called a push-pull method i
push into the middle of the panel walk around the side of the car drag it off
the middle of the panel down onto the onto the sail panel work my way across
the deck lid quarter quarter door door fender fender hood front I’m done that’s my coat so the push-pull
math and now I’ve worked around painters that have fantastic results doing the
opposite of what i’m going to tell you to do and I’m not here to say that Tim
strange or Charlie hot nor those guys can’t paint because they do what I’m
talking about and whatever what I mean is it they’ll
start in the middle of a hood and they’ll work their way down and then
they’ll come over here to the other side of the hood and then they’ll work their
way down here again that’s not what i like to do and it’s
not what works best for me and it’s not what I like to coach people on what I
like to do is start on an edge typically i’ll even start here i’ll come down here
and work my way to the middle of that panel if i can go all the way across and
keep it continuous i will but what I’m doing here I’m in danger of my air hose hitting
that panel if I’ve got a spray suit on that I haven’t taped around my waist there’s a danger of that hitting the
panel because I just painted that that’s brand-new wet coding seconds ago so what I want to do is work my way
until i’m right at the end of my comfort zone then I’m going to come around pick up
that wet edge and drag it it’s like laying and rolling out a piece
of fabric on top of the surface so you’re basically rolling out that
role of paint now what happens and this is what happens and doesn’t
mean that those guys are getting good results doing that but what happens when
you start in the middle is that you have a coat of paint here and I’m working my way down here in the
minute 5 minutes 10 minutes depending on the size of the panel that you’ve spent
here what’s happened to this edge it’s gotten
drive exactly so now what you have to do yes you can
overlap it but if you use the same overlap in the same time and the same
rhythm that you pick up on doing this panel well you’ve got a big dry spray there if
you hammer that paint to where it’s going to melt in you’ve over coated so
now you’ve got three coats in the space of one coat in order to wet it enough to
carry on the procedure that you could have made easier by working your way and
starting from one side and working your way to the other side it’s called picking up the wedge and
it’s just a simple mechanical thing I go to my comfort zone I come back around it takes three
seconds to walk around the car I don’t have to run because I’ve got
enough time and I pick up that wedge and I work my way across the panel and like
I said it’s like rolling that piece of felt across that hood and it’s a very
continuous motion and it’s smooth our goal here is to seem like we’ve
dipped that car into the paint by using the leapfrog method starting
one side of the roof over to the other side of the roof down the sail panel
down the other sail panel over the decklid across the back now i’ll eat
problem to the door and I blend my panel and we probably the other door and come
to the fender work move across the hood then to the fence and then to the other
finger now to the front of the car that’s the pattern i use it’s like a
mantra for me and it creates this envelope of paint that swallows the car
and it’s one continuous coat instead of fighting that paint fighting those dry
edges I’m just going to keep talking if you
guys want to ask questions because there’s yes sir yes sir what about wait you’re fighting the edge okay and you’re trying to see it ok the question was what if you’re using
a light color like white and you’re trying to use overlap and you’re trying
to fight that it could be because you have to pick up the wedge if you can’t
see the wedge you can’t find it you can’t drag it
across the panel it’s a very serious problem and it’s something that you have
to overcome and here’s how I overcome it basically when you look at something
like this when I’m standing like this i can see the paint go down but if I’ve
got a light grey silver and white paint or I’m on my third coat of white paint
yes it becomes a problem so what do I do there’s always light
there’s a light source somewhere whether it’s a son whether it’s fluorescent lights in a
professional booth or whether you’re you got a homemade lighting setup hopefully that’s safe you can find that
light the way I find that light is to stand off the side now I need a volunteer somebody come on what’s your name sir Pat I’m Kevin thank
you I’m sorry I’m chip hi ok when you’re looking stand right where
I’m standing right there now when you look at that tape you can’t
see the reflection can you come down a little bit and come over to the side now you can see all kinds of reflection
right right yeah so what you’ve done is you’ve found your light thanks appreciate it ok the simple
action of changing where you are and letting the light hits your eyes that’s how you find that wedge is it
uncomfortable yeah it doesn’t cost you to paint job
you don’t have dry spray when you go to buff the car so find your light source and it’s the
same way when you’re using when you’re when you’re clear coating it’s
especially important as your base coats they’d all down and i’m assuming
everybody here is using base coat clear coat systems right your base coat a dull down that’s good
you that’s what you want that’s what tells you you’re ready for the next coat
and that’s what tells you you’re ready for a four-year clear coats especially
with waterborne and we can talk about that if you want to or we don’t have to
because we’re hobby guys we don’t have to right now so thank goodness for that
but anyway you find your light source by manipulating where you are and looking
to find it looking to see it and that’s the best method for me to to paint clear
coats as well just like when you’re hammering a nail you’ve got to be there you got to have
that you know but with a spray painting I can get down here and i can get on
about a 45 degree angle and I can see precisely where that’s reflecting i can
find the smallest amount of light and I can cite and I can see where my overlap
is hitting so it’s it’s about changing your body position to find the light that’s pretty much the the answer that I
wanted to get just find it very hard it is hard it’s tough yeah yeah yeah and that’s it brings up another thing
about it it’s really important to wear eye protection really important even if
you’re wearing my ask a respirator force there whatever I protection allows you
to do one thing that’s really relevant to that problem it allows you to get really close
because the bounce back from that spray gun can get into your eyes so you don’t
want that I sign a urethane catalyst is moisture
cured it cures with the moisture in the air so when you spray it with your mucous
membranes open with your lungs your mouth your eyes mucous membranes what do we have in our
eyes there’s tears there’s moisture so when that stuff hits your eyes it kicks not good if it if you have a
way to protect your eyes from that even if you’re wearing just a respirator mask
a pair of safety glasses even to keep that bounced back from going into your
you know throw away at the end of the paint job have some goggles that are
vented on the top protect your eyes it not only keeps your
eyes safe but it allows you to not squint and fight that panel but you can
get up close just like you’re welding you can get up close to that sucker and
you can see the weld pool now you can get up close and you’re not
afraid of the paint coming into your eyes you’re protected you’re smart for doing
that but you can also get right up close to that thing and in a difficult
situation find your light so there’s another safety plug for a reason that’s
almost as good as safety and you had a question for them please it seems like that the god awful slow to
get it the come out right right see these guys on TV either
freaking with through is that films it up it’s not film speed at the question is
he’s got a slow delivery rate on his base coats and all these idiots on TV the P Carson TV or rock and roll and
we’re going fast it’s not sped up film it’s it’s a
question of technique here okay when I’m spring up here watch what
happens look at my gun distance this is exaggerated of course look at what happened to that pattern
it’s splotchy it’s misty and I went really slow watch what happens now now i’m in my
sweet spot see what that did I’ve got a fat even
coat there and I rock through that sucker so a very very smart man his name is hub
Forrester and he taught me about painting fast and he said you’re going
to have to learn you’re gonna have to keep your distance separate but try it
my way and he he gets down this guys 84 years old he’s still teaching pay
classes he is a hero of mine he’s a fantastic instructor but he’s pain like
this and he is rocking through the sand and he has perfect paint he paints Steinway pianos for high-end
clients he’s a master and he taught me that technique and it serves me very
well so that’s probably I’m guessing what
you’re seeing in some of these shows yeah open your fan up a little wider get
your get your gun distance lower you’re gonna have to really refine your skills
and you know take your paintbrush whatever you know nobody’s looking
nobody’s going to make fun of you for a paper a statue pneumatic spray gun but
that can perfect that technique for you and with these HVLP guns there’s a rate
of atomization as you get farther away your particles are farther apart just
like when i raised the gun distance the particles here are very far apart up close they’re very close together and
they’re a lot smaller so your fan pattern it’s a finer mist
it’s a finer atomization as you find that tight sweet spot here’s something that I want to yes their delivery it could be an air
delivery problem great great statement great observation it could be an air
delivery problem what’s your air compressor set up so you’re okay so yeah it’s probably not
that but if you’re working with the three horse 30 gallon yeah you could be having base
coat problems and as slow application time based on based on air delivery another thing is is the fluid tip size
this ship with a 1.2 my opinion I want to spray base coach especially metallics
with a 1.4 1.6 is a little too fat but I like a 1.4 it’s what I’ve gotten
used to not saying you can’t with a 12 but a 14 works best for me and it works
best for a lot of guys that I coach on a hobby level now you’re clear manufacturers typically they are because each paint
manufacturers is a little bit different with with what they wear their
compositions and the reducers and so you follow the guide follow the P sheets on
the paint east has got great guys on their payment systems and it just follow
what what they recommend whether it’s BSF PPG doesn’t matter they’ve got great piece she said that
engineers that have that have figured out all these systems want you to hear
something how we doing for time Randy ok so this
is called the wall of air test a friend of my name is Gary Alaska he’s
on the education forum he’s he’s a brilliant guy he’s a home
hobby guy he is actually a railroad engineer for a living and that but he
helps me he helps guys he’s a master welder you whatever i
use a good buddy and he helps me out a lot on the on the forms and he taught me
this test is called the wall of air test what you listen real carefully you hear
the sound ok it’s a rudimentary test is a very
fundamentally simple test when you hear that sound look at the
distance between my gun and that fluid tip about four inches a big seven your wallet there would be
about here that’s a really good idea to find the
sweet spot of that finest atomization in your spray gun whatever the gun is
typically with an HVLP gun like this conflict about four inches from the
surface so if you’re spraying base code up here
and you haven’t done your wall of air test you know I’ve got the flu delivery
choked off so i can think about painting my hand four inches well that’s about that’s about that distance that’s not
that high that’s not that high off of that panel
now you can tighten it in and you get a finer atomization your pattern goes down
but your atomization is up it’s smaller it’s finer so it’s really
tight to the surface these days guys it’s really close to the painting
surfaces so all these factors your air delivery your technique mostly and the way you’re holding your
gun to the panel the way you’ve reduced the paint if you’re following the pea
shoots them and the recommendations this is giant wonderful recipe of this
beautiful soup that we make and we paint a car with so all of these things matter
that wewe got any any other questions anything with primer primer is that the
same with primer yes it is primer surfacer primer is a
misnomer the primer means many different things there’s primer surfacer this
primer sealer there’s there’s all kinds of primers metal coatings there’s high
build primers there’s blocking primers all that kind of stuff and primer
surfacer is what we’re going to be talking about which is a high bill
primer this meant to surface an area to level
it down and make something smoother and set it up for the top coats so your
primers range from anything to wear i would recommend anything smaller than
1.6 fluid tip on primers that’s the minimum now some of these higher build primers
have a higher viscosity the urethane primers are a little bit thinner what I’ve really come to love our the
polyester primer surfaces i used to use a brand called clausen
it’s a high build Polly primer and we use them on the TV shows and this stuff
is great is very high build it was first developed to do hail damage and to fill in the hail
dance to where you could block and flat without having to pop the dents out and
and Polly has been around for a long time
does anybody remember feather Phil feather filled is where I learned how to
block cars and I had this guy that was mean as heck it was working at a shop
called alejandra portion in Southern California just off in a speech and one
alejandra said okay he called me killer because you can
remember my name but he said killer we’re going to block this car with we
shoot it with feather fill which God is as hard as this concrete parking lot if you remember blocking feather filled
and this guy does and you know he would let it sit for three or four days out in
the California Sun and you say okay Katie guide coat and block it and you
know the way to hit feather feelings about 40 minutes after you shoot it
because it’s still soft enough it is it seriously anyway but taught me not only
not to listen to want but but it taught me how to block panels you know and you
know but but feather filled used to be the high build Polly and it’s beautiful
stuff it’s great stuff it was really brittle – so if you have
any kind of flexing the part sometimes when you stacked it really high it would
crack the polyesters today are much more sophisticated and like I said on jaded
we used all the eastwood products including the brand new poly fill er
it’s a polyester hi build filler and it’s beautiful stuff in powders like
butter it’s amazing and powders like lacquer primer months after I sprayed it we probably did five sessions of priming
and blocking on that car to get it straight and the car is nice and
straight i’m very proud of the body work on it and I’m not the only one that did
body work on it but we use the polyfill almost exclusively the other thing about the old-school
Polly’s the old feather Phil’s is that it was like concrete it was so porous
that you had to put a 2k or lacquer on top of it for your pain to sit on these
new policies like the eastwood Polly you don’t have to so I like the class
and stuff I love the eastwood stuff because it powders nice it blocks nice i can top coded and I’m
trying real hard we’re meeting with the R&D guys to talk them into offering
different colors so now you can bypass a sealer step if you got a dark color
these two parties are really bright color it’s almost white it’s beautiful primer but so far they
only come in that color is JR kicking around anywhere so we’re going to talk to those guys see
if they can make different colors like a dark and a maybe even a red tint something like
that but for primers for the pollies i will get to your point in the question
to point out or larger that’s a garden hose that’s the giant
fluid tip you have to have it because that stuff is so thick and it’s so
there’s almost no solvents in it which is part of the beauty of it it’s about
eighty percent solids which means only twenty percent of that liquid evaporates
off so what you spray on that car stays on that car so it gives you a lot of
meat to block so your policies need a big fat fluid
tip now the concourse I’m sorry the evolution gun comes to the
to point out and I did all Polly’s with the evolution gone jaded so the tools and equipment are here there’s there’s other guns with larger
fluid tips yeah you can you can accommodate that but if you try and shoot Polly through
1.6 it’s not going to happen it’s going to be really dry and unless
you cut it with acetone then then you’re you’re you’re really shooting yourself
in the foot and even when you add acetone to it you’re adding a solvent to
a product that’s not designed to have solvent so invest in a two point of
fluid tip they sell the fluid tip separately here as well so that’s a
really nice add-on to have you can have a multi-purpose gun several different
tips you don’t have to buy five guns you can have five tips and one gun so
for primer surfaces did that kind answer your question okay cool deal what about for your things Hillary your
themes who I would go with the 16 or 18 because
you’re gonna get you know you can add another half part of reducer if you want
to really lay flat and not really violate any any film build issues or
anything like that and if you’re doing a sealer for the
purpose of a sealer then yeah you can use a 16 or I wouldn’t use the one at
one point six I think would be good that brings up something how many guys
use a sealer before they put their topcoats down why do you use a sealer do if it’s if
there was some body work done yet and everything all one color tomorrow yep wight zoo that has like the market
kit yeah black parts yeah the white ceiling one
and I know I’m you know working with ya what’s your name dogs reason for using a
sealer is the reason that i use a sealer it’s to get a continuous ground coat
color in which you put my top coats on top of now I’ve seen guys not use a
sealer and have a leopard spotted paint job and have to use twice as many base
coats especially reds or light blues you have to use twice as much base coat
and sometimes you still get those spots ghosting through I’ve also seen guys with a primer job
that’s perfect it’s hi Bill primer toque a poly
whatever its hi Bill primer and it’s all one color and their spot primed and
they’ve got nothing covered up and it’s great and they’re painted white and they
go ahead and put a great sealer coat on that because that’s what they remember
they should do now what they’ve done is they’ve added another layer of solvents
that has to evacuate and evaporate out of that paint job and now they’re going
to put their five coats a top coat on it and three coats of clear or six coats
clear how much clearer going to understand solvent so my point is any
time you can do what he does and eliminate the need for a layer of
solvent please do it because it’s going to serve
you in the end solvents are the necessary evil of paint it has nothing
to do with paint it is called a transfer vehicle it’s like getting on the bus to go to
work solvent and ended the the bus goes away you’re still at work that’s precisely
the function of solvent in pain we gotta have it because we have to turn it from
a liquid to a solid the solids are what’s left over i’ve been talking about
high solids low solid slacker seventy percent solids hi go Polly eighty
percent solids the solvent which is the twenty percent of that gets out of Dodge you’re left with what hard what’s what what cures so anytime
you can eliminate a layer of solvent that has to evacuate it is not a part of
the equation of paint solvent is bad solvent is not her friend it has to
happen we have to dance with it we have to learn to love it we have to fight it at times solvent pop
trapping issues i know you guys have had these things on your clear coat so you
know with the little pimples and stuff it just makes you mad because that
solvent is not is not cooperating it’s a necessary evil of painting so you
have to learn the rules you have to learn to work with it so anytime like I said I keep hammering
this point any time you can eliminate a layer of solvent in your paint job you are better off so a sealer coat is
yes it’s a great idea because it eliminates three coats of base coat that
you just don’t have to put on that car anymore so now you’ve eliminated three
layers of solvent that has to evacuate it’s got to get out of Dodge so anyway you can facilitate that you’re
better off yeah you like a blue truck and got just
did I i did see lord blue gap the first code bases yeah you’ve almost got a hundred percent
hiding on your first coat so yeah that’s that’s that’s one of
those things where you got to kind of know the rules – – like I said dance with the devil and
and you know that’s kind of what we’re doing work where we’re navigating a
minefield of crap that can happen and go wrong and hopefully you know if at the
end of the day we followed most of those rules we can come up with a nice paint
job and and you know that’s that’s the goal is to get nice work what about a few flat panels that you be
the chemically stripped or sandwich who is going to be a wall before you
actually want to paint the far right you recommending to the car with your things
dealer or what I like to use i like to use an epoxy sealer and for instance the
Mustang keep going back to that because it’s just the last paint job that I did
for the last full restoration that I did we had it media blasted and when I got
it back actually at the media blaster are we went ahead and coated with epoxy
as soon as it came out of that that blast bay so we coded it was on a
rotisserie is on a buck we coated it with one really fat coat of
these with epoxy it’s a one to one mix it’s very easy to use and we use black
because my top coat color is going to be dark it doesn’t matter what color but a
pox he gives a nice band-aid it will stop it from flash resting and it
actually there’s a window of about seven or eight days to where you can apply
your fillers that epoxy without having to sand it so it gives you a nice work
window for for you doing your filler work or like you said protecting your car weekend warrior guys
we can’t do the bodywork on an entire car over the course of a weekend you’re
going to do a panel at a time and this question comes up an awful lot I’m going to media blast my car because
i want to see where the metal is what do i do to keep it from rusting coated with
epoxy attack at one panel at a time even if you have to strip that panel off
to get down to doing rust repair strip the epoxy off leave it sit on the rest
of the car stop it from rusting so great question
and that’s that’s honestly what I do with just about every single thing I do rarely i do i work on top of their steel
is there any other questions yes sir were you your place to get some of the pictures
aren’t going to guarantee their pain because ok is is is a question was he read well you read somewhere that some of the
paint manufacturers are going to honor the warranty the paint if you media blast the car now that may
be the case when you’re talking about soda blasting which is different than
almost any other abrasive video is very mild it doesn’t profile the metal which
means it doesn’t poke holes it doesn’t ruin that that mill scale on that metal
and it leaves a much nicer smoother surface so I like soda blasting however it’s very very important that
you use some sort of a cleaner that dissipates that sodium layer that’s on
there now there’s guys they’ll say well so Diaz or sodium soda-blasting is
nothing more than salt salt is sodium so you’re going to introduce the rest
will know if there’s a thin film that sits on that panel that actually
inhibits rust once you get a soda blasting but you
have to have to have to have to have to get that coating off of there any stores
got some great chemicals to wash that there’s there’s an after blast chemical
there’s some other etching property chemicals that will take and clean thank you like this guy he’s covered all
of our but we will be on the news that takes all of it but yeah you got to make
sure if you’re using soda to go ahead and and and clean that off and get your
substrate ready for something so yeah it’s not a bad thing but you just got to
do that extra step to prep for it listen guys I want to say thank you very
much for sticking around as long as you did and I hope I’ve answered some of the
questions if anybody got anything else to say please you know give me a shout we’re
doing two more of these today we’re doing what – 12:30 and then one at three
o’clock and you know it always changes it’s always different were going to be
talking about fundamentals but if you’re around well we’ll get on another line of
questions and subjects and thank you very much and you know thank you to the
eastwood company let’s give those guys a huge chance for putting this stuff

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